Czech

Approaching Czech border from Austria on the train, I wondered with anticipation. Would it look like any Western country border or a military outpost dating back to the period of Cold War. None of my expectations proved true. We passed the border seamlessly. The landscape had hardly changed. Being September, the golden autumn leaves of the deciduous trees looked particularly stunning. And then I have realised that Czech Republic did change over the post-communist years, moving quickly towards Western life and democracy. As far as the borders go in this part of the world, they were moved and remodelled so many times in the last 100 years. Not so long ago Czechia had been a part of the large Austro-Hungarian Empire that stretched from the Balkans to the borders of the modern day Ukraine. The empire lasted slightly more than half a century and was dissolved following World War I. Nonetheless, there is surprisingly a lot in common between Austria and Czech Republic. The main commonality between the two nations would have to be the stunning baroque architecture of their cities. The churches, with their tall spired roofs, also look similar. After having been influenced by the Austrian and German cultural traditions for so many centuries, the modern Czech Republic is creating its own identity. I’ve found Czechs to be hard-working but at the same time relaxed and welcoming people. During our journey, we had little trouble communicating with the locals. And it was not so much because of our knowledge of Russian and Ukrainian (languages both similar to Czech) but because of the friendly nature and a genuine desire to help the two hopelessly lost tourists, that seemed to be the prevailing characteristic of the people that we met in this country. We rented a car in a small but famous town of Czech Budejovice. The city is famous for being the home of the world famous Budwaiser beer. This should not be confused with the American version, but instead is the original Czech recipe passed on from generation to generation for many centuries. According to Wikipedia the beer was brewed there as early as the 13th century. The selection of beers in any given Czech supermarket is staggering. You see rows and rows of different varieties of beers and the standard bottle size is 500ml! To sum it up in one phrase I would call it “a beer drinkers’ paradise”. Since we hired a car to travel further north, I had to re-strain myself from drinking too much. Czech Republic has very strict drink-driving laws. You must have a 0% alcohol level in your blood while behind the wheel. Otherwise, drivers get slapped with heavy fines and a possibility of jail sentence. Proceeding to the world famous resort of Karlovy Vary, we passed boundless fields sown with wheat and other crops. Apple trees lined both sides of the road. Not only did it look absolutely beautiful, it also helped the country travellers like us to get a taste for local fruits to supplement our appreciation of the countryside. Located in the mountain region of Bohemia, Karlovy Vary was founded in the 14th century by the Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV. The area is called a spa region due to a large concentration of the natural mineral springs in the area. For many centuries this area was considered beneficial for health and the water was used for medicinal purposes. Presently, Karlovy Vary is a magnet for health tourists from all over the globe. There are a lot of hotels and resorts in the area that are tailored specifically for the needs of people with medical conditions. There are a number of procedures and treatments on offer. Put simply, this “hidden valley” offers a relaxing holiday in the mountains with lots of fresh air. The central part of Karlovy Vary’s spring area has cafes and shops along both sides of the Tepla river. The shops cater primarily for the expensive taste of wealthy tourists from Europe and Russia. And as for the rest of us, it is just another opportunity for window shopping. Leaving Karlovy Vary with a sad feeling of not spending enough time there, we headed to Prague. According to the map and advice of the locals it takes around 2 hours to reach the capital. Regrettably, this proved to be a gross underestimate! We had allocated three and a half hours for our trip there to cater for any surprises or delays. Little did we know that after successfully circumnavigating the main highway linking Kalrovy Vary and Prague in about two hours, the Czech capital would present us with spectacular challenges. In order to reach our destination, we followed a detailed map that I had acquired previously. However, the narrow, cobbled streets congested with traffic can be a trap for the novice. It took a lot of self-control to stay calm and focused in the midst of this chaos. After missing our turn a couple of times in a one-way street, we made it just in time for the car drop-off. The central part of Prague is very beautiful, easy to get around on foot or bike and presents a good choice for the budget-conscious traveller. For example we found the prices there are 2.5 times less than in Austria. The splendid old city feels frozen in time. The streets and buildings are clean and the crowds of tourists are easily accommodated by large open spaces of the old town. The spectacular Karlov Most is well maintained and has splendid views back to old Town across Vltava river. I went to the Karlov Most at 6:30AM hoping to take some pictures at sunrise. I was surprised to see a small herd of photographers already there with their tripods. Some were in each others way, and I was wondering whether a fight would break out. However, everything went peacefully. Mind you, the sunrise only lasted about 10 minutes in total. One final word about Czechia, it seems to be a country in the process of being re-build. From where we entered the country to where we said farewell, the construction was in full swing, old roads were repaired, extended and widened, new train lines being laid. I see it as a matter of short while before the Czech Republic will reach the level of living and development as that of its neighbouring West European countries.